Finishing our exceptional wine-soaked exploration of Bordeaux, our next stop was Graves. The name Graves (which, we know, has unfortunate connotations in English) is derived from the soil which canvases the entire area. As you can see in the photo to the left, the soil is dominated by small stones or gravel (Graves means gravel) which millenia of erosion from the Pyrenees brought to the area. This was an exceptional spot to visit and in many ways, was the most interesting of all of our visits. The lack of a recognizable and stratified classification system has, I suspect, created a bit more competition among the Châteaux to have an internationally successful and well-known wine. Often times, the producers who dwell here are neglected in the shadow of Haut-Brion. As Haut-Brion was included in the Médoc classification as a 1st growth, many consumers believe that all of Graves was considered (it wasn’t), therefore as the others do not show up in this classification, they are overlooked. Nothing could be further from the truth. At every Château we visited, we found superbly crafted wines of impressive depth and richness. Moreover, many of the Graves Châteaux produce exceptional white wines which provided welcome palate refreshment after so many heavy red wines. Though we visited several Châteaux, three really stood out as exceptional, Smith Haut Lafitte, Malartic-Lagravière and Haut-Bailly.
At Haut-Bailly, where the above shot was taken, we had a wonderful dinner with the most gracious of hosts. While that was an amazing experience, I was so enthralled with the wines that I missed much of it. The wines here have been on a heroic rise in quality over the past several years and continue to be one of the best deals in Bordeaux (usually between $70-100 on release depending on vintage). Even the second label, La Parde de Haut-Bailly (2006 which we tried from Magnum), was exceptional. Overall the wines were full bodied but quite soft and supple in texture. This allowed for a great deal of versatility in food an wine pairing, even being a competent match for the lobster medallions which were served as a first course. This Châteaux is definitely one to watch for 2010 futures.
The hospitality at Malartic-Lagravière was
truly best in class. The wines were also extraordinary, particularly the white wines. The whites from this Château were the best we tried anywhere in Bordeaux. We were greeted by Director Karim Nasser and taken through the beautiful production facility. After our tour and tasting of the 2009 and 2010 wines, we were escorted to the Château (pictured right) where we were received for lunch by a member of the Bonnie family (who purchased it in 1996). We enjoyed a perfect lunch paired beautifully with their wines, including their Argentinian project DiamAndes. An extraordinary meal in an amazing location, I have included the menu below:
Effiloché de tourteaux, avocats et agrumesCrab with Avocado and Citrus
Château Malartic-Lagravière Blanc 2007
Noix de veau Chabrol, pommes Granny Smith
Veal Cheeks "Chabrol" with Granny Smith Apples
Diam Andes Grand Reserva Rouge 2007Château Malartic-Lagravière Rouge 2003
Fromages affinésAssorted Cheeses
Château Malartic-Lagravière Rouge 1998 (Magnum)
Savarin de blanc manger aux fraisesRum Cake with Strawberries
Proprietress Florence Cathiard greeted us personally at Smith Haut Lafitte. She was an extraordinary woman, fiercely proud of their meticulous farming, their custom cooperage on site and their steady increase in quality year on year. All of the farming done here adhere to biodynamic practices, which are some of the most labor intensive. Their custom barrel cooperage was also quite interesting. The creation of barrels on premise allows for a degree of control which most wineries would consider a luxury. The wines here were fantastic, the whites, a bit richer than others we tried and the reds a bit more focused, minerally and powerful. The 2010s will certainly be a wine to collect for the long term.
After our tasting, Florence gave us the all access tour. With the touch of a button, the floor opened up on hydraulic lifts revealing a secret cellar below.It was here that they stored all of the oldest bottles of their production, going well back into the early 1900s. The tour took an amusing turn as after most everyone had come out of the cellar, the doors closed trapping 3 of our guests in the dark cellar (and without a corkscrew). The hydraulic lifts had a temporary malfunction which shut the doors down. Florence was frantically pushing the button which opened the doors but to no avail. Finally, as if on their own, the doors opened freeing our intrepid explorers. The balance of the group cheered for them as they emerged heroically from their luxurious prison. After the cellar tour, our small band of heroes (along with the rest of us) were escorted to a wonderful dinner.
Truly we had a remarkable time in Bordeaux. Every spot we visited was an extraordinary experience with new friends, brilliant wines and gracious hospitality. Through our comprehensive tastings, we learned several things. First, if you committed to 2009 futures already, you have some incredible wines on the way and you will be well rewarded by your purchase. Second, 2010 is going to be another exceptional year with more structure on the left bank and ripe opulence on the right bank. As 2010 futures pricing begins to roll in, check your email. We will be sending out an offer soon. If you have any questions about 2010 futures or would like to visit Bordeaux with us please email
wine@destinationcellars.com. We look forward to hearing from you.
